Mornings on the shore, written down before the coffee gets cold.
A small, unhurried record of the birds I meet along the edges of Tallinn Bay — Paljassaare, Pirita, Kakumäe and, when the ferry runs, Aegna. Nothing scientific: just counts, weather, the odd sketch and a lot of wind.
412Mornings logged
137Species on the list
4Regular shorelines
−19 °CColdest count (Jan 2024)
Journal
Latest entries · times are local, counts are honest guesses
The first proper goose morning
Wind from the north-west, 9 m/s and a sky the colour of wet slate. Barnacle Geese came in low over the old treatment-works fence in loose ribbons — I stopped counting at about 1,800 and estimated the rest by blocks of fifty. Two White-tailed Eagles sat on the far spit and did absolutely nothing for forty minutes, which is exactly what eagles are for.
Highlights: Barnacle Goose ~2,600 · White-tailed Eagle 2 · Dunlin 34 · Little Stint 3 · Merlin 1 (hunting pipits along the dyke)
migrationgeeseraptors
Grey heron, grey water, grey me
Drizzle from the start. The heron at the river mouth has become a regular — same stone, same posture, same air of disapproval. A small flock of Goldeneye has arrived early; the males are still in their scruffy eclipse plumage and look like they got dressed in the dark.
Highlights: Common Goldeneye 11 · Grey Heron 1 · Great Cormorant 46 · Kingfisher 1 (a blue flash under the bridge, never seen again)
riverducks
Waders on the weed line
After two days of westerlies the bay pushed a thick mat of bladderwrack onto the beach and the waders found it within the hour. Turnstones doing their thing — flipping everything, arguing with each other, flipping it again. A juvenile Curlew Sandpiper among the Dunlin was the bird of the week; the clean peachy wash on the breast gave it away before the bill did.
The island in September is quiet in the best way. Walked the northern shore to the old battery and back. Out past the reef a line of dark shapes turned out to be the first returning Long-tailed Ducks — only a dozen, but their calls carry across the water like someone practising a clarinet badly, and I love it every single year.
Highlights: Long-tailed Duck 12 · Common Eider 30 · Arctic Tern 2 (late) · Red-breasted Merganser 9 · Crested Tit 2 in the pines
islandsea ducks
Terns leaving, reed warblers whispering
Most of the Common Terns have gone; the few that remain are juveniles begging from anyone who will listen. In the reeds the warblers have stopped singing and only tick at me. A Bearded Reedling pair pinged past — always heard before seen, often only heard.
Highlights: Common Tern 7 · Bearded Reedling 2 · Sedge Warbler 3 · Marsh Harrier 1 (juvenile, dark chocolate with a cream cap)
reedslate summer
“The shore is only ever half a place — it belongs to whatever the wind decided this morning.”
Season counts
Maximum single-morning counts per season · all four shorelines combined
Species
Estonian name
Spring 2025
Summer 2025
Autumn 2025
Winter 25/26
Autumn 2026*
Barnacle Goose
valgepõsk-lagle
3,100
40
4,800
—
2,600
Long-tailed Duck
aul
900
—
1,250
2,200
12
Common Eider
hahk
420
160
95
8
30
Common Goldeneye
sõtkas
210
14
180
340
11
Goosander
jääkoskel
130
6
95
410
—
Great Cormorant
kormoran
60
240
190
3
46
Mute Swan
kühmnokk-luik
55
38
71
120
24
Whooper Swan
laululuik
44
—
60
85
—
Dunlin
niidurisla
120
70
160
—
52
Ruddy Turnstone
kivirullija
25
12
31
—
17
Common Tern
jõgitiir
90
210
15
—
7
White-tailed Eagle
merikotkas
3
2
4
5
2
Steller's Eider
kirjuhahk
—
—
—
1
—
* Autumn 2026 is still in progress. A dash means not recorded that season, not necessarily absent.
When to look for what
My own year on the bay, built from five seasons of notebooks
not seenoccasionalregularpeak
Old friends
Six birds I would miss most if they stopped coming
aul
Long-tailed Duck
Clangula hyemalis
Winter visitor in huge numbers offshore. The spring chorus in April, before they head north, is the loveliest noise the bay makes.
valgepõsk-lagle
Barnacle Goose
Branta leucopsis
Thousands stop on the city's edge each May and September. Their yapping carries into the apartment blocks at night.
merikotkas
White-tailed Eagle
Haliaeetus albicilla
A barn door with feathers. When one drifts over Paljassaare every gull and duck on the water lifts at once.
kivirullija
Ruddy Turnstone
Arenaria interpres
Harlequin plumage, bad manners, excellent company. Look for them on the seaweed lines after a westerly blow.
jõgitiir
Common Tern
Sterna hirundo
Arrives in early May as if it never left. Dives for sprats right off the Pirita promenade while joggers go past, unaware.
hallhaigur
Grey Heron
Ardea cinerea
The one on the Pirita stone has been there, as far as I can tell, since 2022. Patience personified, and entirely unimpressed by me.
The four shorelines
Where I walk, and what each place is good for
Paljassaare
A flat, wind-bitten peninsula north of the port, half nature reserve and half industrial afterthought. Reedbeds, shallow lagoons and a long dyke. The best all-round site in the city.
Best: May and September mornings · easterly winds
Pirita
River mouth, marina and a long sandy beach. Ducks and cormorants on the river, terns and gulls over the bay. Easy to reach, easy to combine with a coffee.
Best: winter ducks · summer terns
Kakumäe
The western bay: boulders, seaweed and a view straight into the weather. Waders after storms, sea ducks passing in autumn gales.
Best: after a westerly blow
Aegna
A small forested island a short ferry ride out, with rocky shores and old fortifications. Quiet, windy, wonderful — and only reachable in the warmer months.
Best: late summer passage · pinewood birds
Not to scale. Hand-drawn from memory, like everything else here.
What's in the bag
Nothing fancy — the bay rewards patience more than glass
Binoculars, 8×42. Bright enough for grey mornings, light enough to forget about. Anything bigger and I stop carrying it.
A second-hand scope. Only for Paljassaare and the sea-duck rafts off Pirita. Heavy, fogs up, indispensable in November.
Notebook and pencil. Pens freeze. Phones die in the cold. A pencil has never let me down at −15 °C.
Folding stool. The single best birding purchase I have made. Sit down and the shore comes to you.
Wool, then more wool. The wind off the Baltic finds every gap. Two thin layers beat one thick one.
A thermos. The mornings are long, the kiosks open late, and a warm drink is the difference between a good count and going home early.
About these notes
I started this journal in the spring of 2021, when long walks were the only thing left to do and the shore was the only place with enough room. I kept going because the birds kept coming back, and because writing things down turned out to be the best way to actually see them.
There is no newsletter, no comments and nothing to sign up for. The counts are my own and are shared with the local recording scheme at the end of each season. If you spot a mistake in an identification, you are probably right — the bay has fooled me many times.